Mrs Gaugain's minature knitting netting and crochet book

Printed image digitised by the University of Southampton Library Digitisation Unit

I j WORKS OF IV! RS GAUjGAI'N, LATELY PUBLISHED.

VOL. I.

LADY’S ASSISTANT in Knitting, Netting, and Crochet
Work. Seventh Edition, price 5s. 6d.

VOL. II.

LADY’S ASSISTANT in Knitting, Netting, Crochet,
Worsted Work, Raised Cut Work, and Tatting. Third Edition,
price 10s. (id.

ACCOMPANIMENT to Second Volume; or a Book of Prints
illustrating all the Open Stitches described in Vol. II. ; with a number
, of New and Beautiful Specimens of Knitting. Second Edition, price
‘is. 6d.

MRS GAUGAIN’S

MINIATURE

KNITTING, NETTING, AND CROCHET BOOK,

EDINBURGH- :

PUBLISHED BY I. J, GAUGA1N, 63 GEORGE STREET ;
AND ACKERMANS AND CO. STRAND, LONDON.
Seventh Thousand.

|d’ Observe, that in all the following receipts where the pattern
is marked “repeat," the edge stitches are never repeated.

Printed image digitised by the University of Southampton Library Digitisation Unit

PREFACE.

In introducing this little Work to the notice of the public, Mbs
Gaugain has nothing to announce farther than a repetition of what
she has before said in her First Volume — that nothing more is re-
. ! quisite for an inexperienced pupil of moderate capacity to enable
her to execute any of the following elegant designs, than a know-
ledge of the elementary stitches of Knitting, which are simply

1

SIGNS USED IN THE, KJ

A, take in three loops into one, by slipping the first loop off
backwards, without knitting ; knit the second and third loops to-
gether, then lift the first over the taken-in loop.

B, a back, ribbed, seam, or pearl stitch, by knitting it off back-
wards with wool in front of pin ; all back or pearled stitches must
be done so, (having wool in front, before commencing the stitch.)

B3 or B6, three or six back stitches ; the figures indicate the
number of stitches to be worked.

O, make a stitch, by bringing the thread to the front, (by passing
it under the right wire, to the front.)

Ob, make a back or pearled stitch, by casting the thread quite
round the wire.

P, a plain stitch or loop.

P2 or P4, two, or four plain stitches or loops, as the figures may
be.

S, slip stitch, take off a stitch without working, as if you were
going to work a back stitch.

S2, slip two stitches off without working.

KNITTING RECEIPTS.

1

T, take in (or narrow) stitch, by knitting two loops together.

Ts, take. in, by slipping the first loop; knit the next; slip the
first over the knit one.

j,, take in hack stitch, by pearling two together, having the wool
in front.

Row, 'signifies a row from one end of pin to the other.

Round, a row quite round, when the work is done on more
wires than two.

Plain bow, a row all plain stitches.

Back, ob peabl bow, a row worked exactly contrary to the
plain row.

Fbont bow, is worked with the thread behind.

Back bow, with the thread in front.

Being forward, bring the thread in front, so as to make an
open stitch.

Cast off, by knitting the two first stitches, slip the first stitch
over the second ; knit a third, and slip the second over the third
one ; continue in this way till the whole is cast off.

iv

those used in forming a stocking, viz — a plain stitch, a back stitch*
or seam stiteh, a take-in stitch, and an increase stitch, — all of which
any child may he taught in the short space of half an hour.

It may not be here out of place to mention, that all the terms used
in this book will be found explained on the folding leaf or table,
which can be extended while working any of the receipts ; and
will thus save much trouble in turning over the leaves.

• A back stitch by many knitters is termed a seam stitch, from its being used to form
a line down a stocking, in imitation of a seam.

CONTENTS.

Bag in purse cord, (not purse silk,) 37
Bag, very beautiful shaded, 38
Bag, handsome crochet, 44

Bed-Cover, Russian crochet-stitch, 25
Boot, warm and useful, for a baby, 32
Boot, long, - - 36

Cap for wearing under the bonnet, 51
Comfort, scale stitch, 12

Comfort, - - 30

Coverlet, Baby’s, in garter stitch, 13
Cuffs, simple and pretty dress knit, 22
Cuff, another very simple, - 23

D’oyleys, set of open square, 7
Diamond of five stitches for a long
purse, - - 64

Echarpe, petite net, for the neck, 43

Edging, - - 17

Edging, beautiful lace, - 24

Fringe, - - 14

Guard, strong, for a lady or gen.

tleman, - - 54

Hood, Baby’s, garter stitch, 12
Kettle holder, - 46

Huff. Princess Royal’s, scale stitch, 10
Muffetees, - - 41

Muffetee, another, - 42

Muffetee, warm, for boys, 43

Neckerchief, summer, - 21

Neckerchief, the roy, triangular
net, or Coiffure a Neglegee, 28
Net, Grecian, for a veil, 62

Net, dotted, - - 67

1

CONTENTS.

Net, French ground, - 68 Purse, long, of open stitch of single

Netting, round, for a gentleman’s tambour, - - 72

long purse, - - 57 Purse, long, plain French tambour, 73

Netting, honeycomb, for veil, 58 Purse, long, French tambour, 74

Netting, single diamond, 63 Purse, open tambour, - ib.

Netting, leaf, 66 Scarf, elegant knit, with colour -

Purse, long, Queen Victoria, 5 ed waved ends, - 47

Purse, long, pretty open stitch, 6 Scollop for borders of Veils, Col-

Purse, Prince Albert’s, - 17 lars, Caps, &c. - 69

Purse, beautiful, 23 Scollop, another, for border, 70

X J urse, Russian crochet-stitch, 27 Scollop, - - 71

Purse, long net, for a lady, 55 Shawl. Chinee Triangular Wrap-
Purse, long net, for a lady, 56 ping, garter stitch, - 20

Purse, very pretty long Grecian Stocking, under or sleeping, 36
net, for a lady, - 60 Tidy, very beautiful, - 15

KNITTING.

QUEEN VICTORIA LONG PURSE.

Worked in stripes, running round the Purse, of mazarine blue
and white, or fawn. If for a bride’s purse, white silk and extra
fine gold twist. For a gentleman, black and cerise colour. Two
pins, No. 19, and 2 hanks each colour, are required.

Cast on 90 stitches with mazarine blue.

1st Row, Ob, j,, repeat to end of row.

2nd Row, plain.

3rd Row, plain.

4th Row, pearl.

5th Row, with White, j, Ob, repeat to end all but 2 stitches, work them^.

6th Row, *0, plain all the rest of row.

7th Row, plain,

8th Row, pearl.

Repeat from first row with, white and blue until you have 9
inches worked. Cast it off ; damp and stretch it on a stretcher
until dry ; sew up a third for each side of Purse ; draw up the
cast-on and cast-oif rows for each end ; attach tassels and rings of
gold or steel.

LONG PURSE, PRETTY OPEN STITCH.

This very pretty Purse is worked in shaded silk, or plain. Three
hanks of any colour of second sized purse silk, and two wires
of No. 19 are required. (It is much enriched, and looks well
with steel or gold beads in every other row; one bead between
* O, bring the thread before the wire to make the 0, then work the plain row.

KNITTING.

the T and P.) When worked, damp and pin it out till dry ;
make it up as the foregoing purse, by drawing up the cast-on and
cast-off ends, &c. Cast on 72 stitches.

1st Row, 0, T, P, repeat to end.

2nd Row, Ob, j,, B.

Repeat as these two rows, until you have 9 inches worked.

If a fine Purse is wished, the third-sized twist, and wires No. 21,
are required. .

SET .OF OPEN SQUARE D’OYLEYS.

(Cut represents First Pattern.)

Eighteen is the general number knit,
therefore 9 of each pattern is required.
One hank of Dutch cotton No. 14, and
2 wires No. 20, are required for each.

Note . — These are quite different from the Twenty-
one close D’oyleys in Vol. II.

8

KNITTING.

FIRST PATTERN.

Cast on 72 stitches, and work 12 plain rows.

13th Row, P6, edge stitches, P, T, 0, P, 0, T, repeat, edge stitches, P6.

• 14 th Row, P6, edge stitches, pearl, all but edge stitches, P6.

15th Row, P6, T,+ edge stitches, 0, P3, 0, A, repeat, all butlOstitches,
work them thus, 0, P3, 0, T, edge stitches, P5.

16th Row, P6, edge stitches, pearl, all but edge stitches, P6.

17th Row, P5,+ edge stitches, T, 0, P4, repeat, edge stitches, P7.

18th Row, P6, edge stitches, pearl, all hut edge stitches, P6.

19th Row, P7,+ edge stitches, 0, T. P, T, 0, P, repeat, all but 11 stitches,
work them thus, 0, T, P, T, 0, edge stitches, P6.
20th Row, P6, edge stitches, pearl, all but edge stitches, P6.

21st Row, P8,+ edge stitches, 0, A, 0, P3, repeat, all hut 10 stitches,
work them thus, 0, A, 0, P, edge stitches, P6.
22d Row, P6, edge stitches, pearl, all hut edge stitches, P6.

•f Observe the changes in the edges.

KNITTING.

9

23d Row, P6, edge stitches, P2, T, 0, P2, repeat, edge stitches, P6.
24th Row, P6, edge stitches, pearl, all but edge stitches, F6.

Continue repeating from 13th row, until you have a square all
but the 12 plain rows; work them. Cast off.

SECOND D’OYLEY PATTERN.

Cast on 72 stitches. Work 12 plain rows before commencing.
13th Row, P6, edge stitches, P4, 0, A, 0, P3, repeat, edge stitches, P7.
14th Row, P6, edge stitches, pearl, all but edge stitches, P6.

15th Row, T6, edge stitches, P2, T, 0, P3, 0, T, P, edge stitches, P7.
16th Row, P6, edge stitches, pearl, all but edge stitches, P6.

17th Row, P6, edge stitches, P, T, 0, P5, 0, T, edge stitches, P7.
' 18th Row, P6, edge stitches, pearl, all but edge stitches, P6.

I 19th Row, P6, T,**edge stitches, 0, P7, 0, A, edge stitches, 0, P7, 0,T,P6.

20th Row, P6, edge stitches, pearl, all but edge stitches, P6.

21st Row, P6, edge stitches, P2, 0, T, P3, T, 0, P, edge stitches, P7.

• Observe, there is a T in this edge.

y

4

10

KNITTING.

22d Row, P6, edge stitches, pearl, all but edge stitches, P6.

23d Row, P6, edge stitches, P3, 0, T, P, T, 0, P2, edge stitches, P7.

24th Row, P6, edge stitches, pearl, all but edge stitches, P6.

Repeat, until you have a square all hut 12 plain rows, then

work these 1 2 plain rows to correspond with the beginning. Cast
it off. Finish with a narrow fringe ; a cut one is best, as it can
be combed out when washed.

PRINCESS ROYAL’S MUFF.

SCALE STITCH.

This Muff, in imitation of Chinchilla Fur, or Siberian Lamb’s
Skin, is extremely simple and pretty. Twelve shades of clear 1
bright grey, the darkest shade about two shades from black, the
lightest the next shade to white. They are worked from dark
to light, and then from light to dark, as following receipt will
show. About six small hanks of each shade, and two bone pins.

I

KNITTING.

11

No. 7, are required It is all worked with Berlin wool, wound

double.

Cast on, for a child, 61 stitches ; for a lady, 81.

1st Row, (with darkest shade,) P, S, repeat to end, edge stitch P.

2nd Row, plain all the row, edge stitch P .

Repeat as 1st and 2nd Rows, with the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th,
7th, 8th, 9th, 10th, 11th, and 12th shades, then 11th, 10th, 9th,
8th, 7th, 6th, Sth, 4th, 3rd, and 2nd. This finishes one stripe.
Work four stripes for a child, and about five for a lady. Make it
up by joining the cast-off and cast-on rows together (on the wrong
side.) Roll up a sheet and a half of wadding, folded into a stripe
' of about three-eighths wide, to the size that will admit of the

j work slipping over it, then draw it up round the arm holes ; sew

on a thick shaded twisted cord, about \ yard, for each arm hole.
Cuffs are very pretty and warm worked in this way, for wear-
i ing over gown sleeves.

I

12

KNITTING.

COMFORT.

SCALE STITCH.

This Comfort for a gentleman is in the same stitch as foregoing
Muff. Work in claret, four plies fleecy, or very dark blue. About
six hanks fleecy, and two pins No. 7, are required.

Cast on 71 stitches ; work it until it is the length required.

A Comfort of proper length should go twice round the neck,
and the ends long enough to cover the chest. When finished, it
is folded double, (the long way.)

BABY’S HOOD.

GARTER STITCH.

This Hood is worked with three plies white fleecy. Work 80
rows. Roll up 60 rows, which form the front ; then sew together
three inches of the cast-on part; draw up the remainder of the

It

KNITTING. 13

fi

caat-on part for the crown. Cast on for back curtain, 50 loops ;
work 40 rows. When worked, line it with white satin, shaped
as a cap, and three rows of narrow satin ribbon drawn through
the forehead, and finished by a rosette of same ribbon. Two skeins
of fleecy, and two pins of No. 2 are required.

1st Row, S edge stitch, rest plain.

1

1

Repeat as this Row till the whole is finished.

BABY’S COVERLET,

1

IN GARTER STITCH.

)

This light and pretty Coverlet is worked in stripes of blue and
white alternately. Eight skeins of blue, nine plies fleecy, and six

of white are required. Two pins No. 2.

Cast on with blue 1 30 stitches.

14

KNITTING.

1st Row, S edge stitch, plain.

2nd Row, S edge stitch, plain. ')

Repeat as these two rows until you have about 41 inches wide
of blue worked. Then work the white about 3 inches wide.

Continue working the white and blue alternately until it is finished.

FRINGE.

This Fringe is useful for trimming Baby’s Coverlets, Shawls,

Scarfs, D’oyleys, &c. &c. It is worked with the wool wound
double.

Cast on 8 stitches. j

1st Row, Ob, j_, repeat.

Continue working as this row until you have as much done as
will go round the Coverlet ; cast off four stitches, pull down the
other four all along the Fringe.

f

KNITTING. 15

VERY BEAUTIFUL TIDY,*
For backs of Chairs, ends and
hacks of Sofas. (It is also useful
for Scarfs, Bed-Covers, Shawls,
&c.) Three hanks Dutch cotton.
No. 18, and 2 bone pins,
are required.

Cast on 112 stitches. Work 8 plain rows.

9th Row, S, P4, edge stitches, P4,1T, P2, 0, T, 0, T, 0, P, 0,

repeat 5 more times, edge stitches,

10th Row, S, P4, edge stitches, pearl, all but edge stitches,

1 1 th Row, S, P4, edge stitches, P3, T, P2, 0, T, 0, T, 0, P3, 0, P2
+T, P2. T, P2, 0, T, 0, T, 0, P3, 0, P2 ; repeat from
i.. 1 thus 4 more times, edge stitches,

• This is the same pattern as the Open Mitten, and the Baby’s Cap, Vol
as centre of Shetland Shawl in Volume II., all of which are moat b

Printed image digitised by the University of Southampton Library Digitisation Unit

16

KNITTING.

12th Row, S, P4, edge stitches; pearl, all but edge stitches, P5.

13th Row, S, P4, edge stitches, T, T, P2, 0, T, 0, T, 0, P5, O, P2 ; •

repeat 5 more times, edge stitches, P5.

14th Row, S, P4, edge stitches, pearl, all but edge stitches, P5.

15th Row, S, P4, edge stitches, T, P2, 0, P, 0, T, 0, T, 0, P2, I r ~\

P4, edge stitches, P5.

16th Row, S, P4, edge stitches, pearl, all but edge stitches, P5.

17th Row, S, P4, T, edge stitches, P, 0, P3, 0, T, 0, T, 0, P2, T, P2,

T— +P2, 0, P3, 0, T, 0, T, 0, P2, T, P2, T | repeat- .
from mark thus + 3 more times ; then P2, _0, P3, 0, T,

O, T, 0, P2, T, P3, edge stitches, P5.

18th Row, S, P4, edge stitches, pearl, all but edge stitches, P5.

19th Row, S, P4, edge stitches, P2, 0, P5, O, T, 0, T, 0, P2, T, T ;

repeat, edge stitches, P5.

20th Row, S, P4, edge stitches, pearl, all but edge stitches, P5,

Repeat from 9th row, until the work measures one square and

a half; then work the 8 plain rows as at the beginning; east it off.
Note . — When washed, it should be slightly starched.

KNITTING,

17

i

j|

I

i

EDGING.

Pins and cotton as in former Receipt.

Cast on 1 1 stitches.

1st Row, S, P-2, 0, T, 0, T, 02, T, 02. T.

2nd Row, P2, B, P2, B, P2, 0, T, 0, T, P.

3rd Row, S, P2, O, T, 0, T, P6.

4th Row, cast off 2 stitches. Work the remainder thus, P5, 0, T, 0, T, P.

Repeat from first row, until you have the length required to
to go round it ; cast it off, and sew it on Tidy.

PRINCE ALBERT PURSE.

This is a very handsome purse, knit in two colours of Albert
blue, and deepish buff (or gold colour') silk, and steel beads. On
the blue stripes, there is a row of steel beads ; the buff part is three

18

KNITTING.

rows of open stitch. One reel of each of the silks, 2 wires of No.
19, and 8 rows of No. 10, steel beads, are required.

Cast on 122 stitches with Albert blue.

1st Row, plain.

2nd Row, plain.

3rd Row, pearl.

4th Row, * plain ; every stitch put down a bead.

5th Row, pearl.

6th Row, plain. When worked, tie on the buff, and work with it as
following 7th row.

7th Row, P edge stitch, Ob, ; repeat to end, edge stitch, P.

8th Row, pearl.

9th Row, P edge stitch, j,, Ob ; repeat to end, edge stitch, P.

10th Row, pearl.

11th Row, P edge stitch, Ob, j, ; repeat to end, edge stitch, P,

12th Row, pearl. Now tie on blue, and work as following 13th row.

• Work a plain stitch, then pass a head quite down to the stitch worked ; then work
another stitch and pass a head down. Continue in the same way to the end.

KNITTING,

19

*

13th Row, plain.

14th Row, plain.

15th Row, pearl.

16th Row, plain ; every stitch put down a bead.

17 th Row, pearl.

18th Row, plain. Tie, and work as following 19th row.

19th Row, P edge stitch, jq, Ob ; repeat, edge stitch, P.

20th Row, pearl.

21st Row, P edge stitch, Ob, j, ; repeat, edge stitch, P.

22nd Row, pearl.

23rd Row, P edge stitch, j,, Ob ; repeat, edge stitch, P.

24th Row, pearl.

Repeat from first row, until you have about 6 inches worked ;
then damp it slightly with a little thin gum water. Pin it straight
out, or stretch it on a stretcher, till dry ; then sew up the cast-on
and cast-off edges, leaving a space for admitting the money. Draw
it up at each end ; add tassels, and rings of steel.

A

A

20

KNITTING.

CHINEE TRIANGULAR WRAPPING SHAWL,

GARTER STITCH.

Worked in shaded Berlin wool, (or it can be worked in plain
wool, if preferred) brown for border, and bine or pink for middle.
The Shawl is formed into a triangular shape simply by being let
out at the slanting side.

Two pins No. 8, 4 ounces of the centre colour, and 2 of the
border, are required. Cast on 3 stitches.

1st Row, S, P2. I 3rd Row, S, P3.

2nd Row, *0, P3, I 4th Row, 0, P4.

Repeat in this way until you have 21 stitches of brown, then tie
on at the slanting edge, and work with the blue as follows : —

• This is the slanting side. To form the O brine the thread in front of the pin ; then
work the 3 stitches off quite plain ; by this you will perceive you have 4 stitches. This
O makes a pretty loop all along the slanting side.

KNITTING.

21

f 1st Row, introducing blue, 0, P, blue, -f-P20, brown.

2nd Row, S, P19, brown, P2, blue,
t 3rd Row, 0, P2, blue, P20, brown.

4th Row, S, P19, brown, P3, blue.

So continue, keeping the 20 stitches brown, for border, and
always increasing, as before, on the blue. Continue increasing
until it measures 1 1 yards, then work about 38 rows plain, with
brown, always letting out, as before, on the slanting side.

SUMMER NECKERCHIEF.

The foregoing Receipt, worked in Berlin wool, white centre, and
pink or blue border, on No. 10 pins, looks extremely well for a
Summer or Dress Neckerchief, (consequently it is not worked so
large.)

f P20, before working the first stitch, pass the brown ball to the back, and twist it
round the blue ; this is to prevent a gape in the work.

1

I

22

KNITTING.

SIMPLE AND PRETTY DRESS KNIT CUFFS,

Worked with Taylor’s white cotton,
No. 6, and 2 wires No. 20. One of
the edgings in this hook looks well
sewed to the top and bottom of the
Cuffs. Sew 3 small common hooks so
as to hook in to the open part of work,
to fit the wrist. Cast on 28 stitches,
rather loose.

1st Row, Ob, j, repeat to end. Every row is the same.

Continue, until you have sufficient to go round the wrist.

Printed image digitised by the University of Southampton Library Digitisation Unit

ANOTHER VERY SIMPLE CUFF.

This may either be worn with an
edging or not. Two pins. No. 20,
and a reel of Taylor’s cotton. No. 6,
are required.

Cast on 32 stitches ; they must not
he tightly put on.

1st Row, S, P, edge stitches, Ts, O, P,
B ; repeat to end of row, edge P2.

Repeat until you have sufficient to go round the wrist. Cast
it off ; add hooks same as the foregoing Cuff.

BEAUTIFUL PURSE.

The foregoing Receipt makes a beautiful Purse. Cast on 110

24

KNITTING.

stitches. Two wires of No. 18, and 3 hanks 2nd sized twist are
required ; work about 9 inches, then cast it off.

BEAUTIFUL LACE EDGING.

This Edging is sometimes used for the
Shetland Shawl instead of a Fringe, and is
very pretty for trimming Tidies, Bed-covers,
&c. Cast on 14 stitches.

1st Row, S, P2, 0, T. P, 0, T. P, 02, T, 02, T, P.

2nd Row, S, P2, B, P2, B, P3, 0, T. P, 0, T, P.

3rd Row, S, P2, 0, T, P, O, T, P3, 02, T, 02, T, P,

4th Row, S, P2, B, P2, B, P5, 0, T, P, 0, T, P.

5th Row, S, P2, 0, T, P, 0, T, P5. 02, T, 02, T, P.

6th Row, S, P2, B, P2, B. P7, 0, T, P, 0, T, P.

7th Row, S, P2, 0, T, P, 0, T, P7, 02, T, 02, T, P.

KNITTING.

25

T

| 8th Row, S, P2, B, P2, B, P9, 0, T, P, 0. T, P.

r 9th Row, S, P2, 0, T, P, 0, T, P14.

Cast off all but 13 stitches, work them thus, P7, 0, T, P, 0. T, P.

Repeat from 1st row.

RUSSIAN CROCHET-STITCH BED-COVER.

This Bed-Cover worked in squares is simple and rich looking,
the stitch forming a sort of ridge. When the squares are all worked,
they are sewed together, so that the ridges of the one lie contrary
to the other, which produces a very good effect. At. the corners of
each square there is a small tuft of cut cotton ; which is made
by winding some plies of soft cotton round a mesh about an incli
wide ; then withdrawing it from the mesh, and tying it round the
centre very firmly. Double it up, and give it a* stitch or two, to
keep it together, then cut it. Each tuft should he quite round,
and about the size of sixpence, or larger.

♦

26

KNITTING.

Cast on 24 chain stitches with the coarsest twisted cotton.
What I use, is called 4 plies No. 6, Dutch cotton, (hard
twisted,) and a hook gauging No. 13.*

1st Row, plain French tambour stitch, as described in this book,
under the head of French or double tambour stitch. At the end
of this and every row work a single chain stitch. (This single stitch,
if omitted, would in that row diminish a stitch.) Now turn the
work in your hand, so as to work hack again without cutting off
the cotton.

2nd Row, work in double tambour stitch, hut instead of taking
the upper part of the loop, take the undermost, which is the outer
part of the work next the fore-finger of the left hand'. (Repeat as
2nd Row, until you have a square crochet; when all are done,
join them, as before described. A plain border, of a quarter of a

* In gauging the hook, the part to be measured is that part of the stem directly above
the hook.

t Observe, always to work at the end of the row the single chain stitch.

T

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KNITTING.

yard deep, of this stitch all round, looks very well ; it is worked
in four lengths and four squares, to fit in each of the comers.

RUSSIAN CROCHET-STITCH PURSE.

Albert blue, (or a good claret colour) with or without steel beads,
look well. A hook gauging No. 17, and three hanks of common
sized purse twist, are required.

Cast on 108 chain stitches, rather loose, for a long Purse.

Work exactly as described for bed-cover stitch. Continue
working, until you have about six inches. Damp it with a little
dissolved guin Arabic and water, and stretch it out till dry.

P.S — If beads are wished, use No. 10; about 12 rows are re-
quired; thread them on the silk before commencing. The beads
are put on in every other row, and every other stitch, by merely
slipping a head down to the last stitch worked ; then crochet the

*

28 KNITTING.

stitch (which fastens in the head ;) then work a plain stitch ; then
a bead as before, to end of row. Join up this Purse by crocheting
or sewing up the first and last row at each end, leaving a space in
the middle to admit the money. Draw up the ends; add steel rings
and tassels to complete the Purse.

THE ROY, TRIANGULAR NET NECKERCHIEF, OR
COIFFURE A NEGLEGEE.

This is net in shades of blue and stone coloured Berlin wool ;
(six shades of stone colour, six of blue, and one of white) commenc-
ing with the white and working down to the darkest blue ; then
one row white ; and then the lightest stone colour down to the dark-
est. Two small hanks of each shade, a flat bone mesh No. 8, and
as many netting needles as shades, are required.

Cast on 2 loops with white.

KNITTING.

29

!

1st Row, increase on the 1st loop, then 1 plain stitch.

2nd Row, tie on the 2nd shade, 1 plain ; increase on middle loop, and on
the last loop.

3rd Row, tie on the 3rd shade, 2 plain ; increase on middle loop, 1 plain;
increase on last loop.

4th Row, tie on the 4th shade, 3 plain ; increase on middle, 2 plain ;
increase last loop.

5th Row, tie on the 5th shade, 4 plain ; increase on the middle stitch,
3 plain ; increase on last loop,

6th Row, tie on the 6th shade, P5 stitches ; increase on middle loop,
P4 ; increase on last loop.

7th Row, tie on the white, P6 stitches ; increase on middle loop, P5 ;
increase on last loop ; this finishes the coloured stripe.

Continue and work the shade of stone and blue alternately, al-
ways increasing on the middle loop, and on the last loop, until you
have about 140 stitches; then work the border with the white and
blue as before ; then work still in the shades of blue from the 2nd

30

KNITTING.

darkest up to the white, (increasing all the time as before) ; by
tliis means you have the border double the breadth of the stripe.
Now take a mesh It inch wide, and work a row all found the Ker-
chief, working two stitches into each of the loops. This fringe row
should be done with the third lightest shade. Damp and stretch it
out till dry. The top corner of this Kerchief is turned down, It
looks extremely well as a loose covering for the head.

COMFORT.

Six hanks dark mazarine or Albert bine, 41 4 plies fleecy, and a
pin No. 8, are required.

Cast on 54 stitches.

• This colour not being very fast, it comes off in the working, to prevent which, be-
fore beginning, wash the wool in lukewarm water, dissolving a little piece of white soap
in it ; also put a little pearl ash, (about half a table spoonful) ; then rinse it again in
lukewarm water ; wring it well, and shake it while drying. Black wool, and other dark
colours, have often to be washed before working.

KNITTING.

31

1st Row, S, plain, and 3 more rows.

5th Row, S, P2 edge stitches — T, repeat T all aiong ; edge stitches P3.

6th Row, S, P3 edge stitches — B, pick up a stitch from the row below,
working it B ; it is that part of the loop which lies across
between the stitch you have just knit and the one on the left
pin, and draws with the first stitch on the left pin ; repeat
B, and the picked up B, all along, edge stitches P3.

7th Row, S, plain, and 3 more rows.

11th Row, S, P3 edge stitches — T, repeat, edge stitches P3,

12th Row, S, P3 edge stitches, *pick up stitch, and B ; repeat to end,

edge stitch^. P3.

13th Row, S, P3 edge stitches, pearl or back row, edge stitcfks P3,

14th Row, S, P3 edge stitches, plain, and 2 more rows.

* Observe, in every other open row, the pick-up 9titch must be worked before the B,
otherwise it would be uneven, (be careful not to work one upon the end of the row
after the B.j

*

32 KNITTING.

VERY USEFUL, WARM, AND PRETTY BOOT FOR A BABY.

This Boot has a coloured shoe front, and a white leg, with stripes
of colour going across the forefoot. The shoe part.is let’out six
times at toe and three times- at .heel, as following receipt will show.
This Boot is joined up after it is worked. Four pins of No. 11,
and one hank of blue, four-plies superfine fleecy, and one hank
white, are required.

Cast on 23 stitches with colour.

1st Row, S, plain — (this is the sole part.)

2nd Row, S, plain ; at the end of row increase a stitch, by picking up a
stitch from the row below, and working it, then knit a plain
stitch — (this is for toe part.)

3rd Row. S, plain ; increase a stitch at the end of the row, as before — (this
is for heel part) ; repeat as 2nd and 3rd rows 2 more times.
8th Row, S, plain, letting out at toe part, as before.

9th Row, S, quite plain ; repeat, as 8th and 9th rows two more times.

, KNITTING. 33

I

14th Row, S, plain, four more rows, which finishes at toe part. — If you
have worked according to the receipt, you must now have eight
ridges,* besides the cast-on row. — Now work the toe part as
follows.

19th Row, S, P9 ; leave the other 22 stitches on the pin, take a third pin,
and work back the toe stitches as follows.

20 th Row, P 10 ; this makes one ridge for the toe part ; repeat 19 th and
20th rows nine more times. This concluded, you have now
10 ridges for toe part.

39th Row, S, P9, -feast on 22 stitches for other side of shoe, to corres-
pond with the other 22 stitches that were left on the pin.

40th Row, S, plain, and three more rows, which finishes at heel.

44th Row, S, plain to toe, all but three stitches, work thus, T, P.

45th Row, S, plain to heel ; repeat as 44th and 45th rows two more times.

* Two rows form a ridge.

f Cast-on is done by forming a loop on one of the fingers of the left hand, and passing
it on to the right hand pin.

}

34

KNITTING.

50th Row, S, plain, taking in at toe, T, P.

51st Row, plain, all but three stitches ; work them thus, T, P.

Repeat as 50th and 51st rows two more times,

56th Row, S, plain Then cast off sole part.

Now pick up the 22 stitches that were cast on before, to corres-
pond with the 22 on the pin. Tie on the white wool at the heel,
and work with it the 22 picked-up stitches ; then pick up on to a
separate pin the 1 0 stitches on the fore foot (or toe) part, and work
them, working the last stitch of the 10 stitches with the first of
the 22 stitches that were left on the first pin ; turn and work the
10 stitches back again, lifting the last of the 10 stitches before
working it on to the pin that has the 22 white stitches on it, and
work it and one of the pin stitches together. Work again as these
two rows, with white, always working the last stitch and one of
the side, loops together; *tie on the colour, (but do not cut off the

* Do not'break off the white, but leave it and every other row when you are not using

white, as it is required again); work two rows only with it as
before described, then four with white, as before, then two with
coloured, then four with white, and two with colour. This finishes
forefoot. Again work with white the forefoot stitches, then the
remaining side stitches plain to the heel. Next row work as fol-
lows, in white, from one side of heel to other.

Row, S, plain ; repeat as this row 22 more times, then work six rows
B2, P2. Then tie on the coloured, and work B2, P2.

Cast it off; join up the boot by sewing the ridges together on
the wrong side, then down the leg, all along the sole, and up to
the top of outlets of toe ; then turn down the 10 ridges for toe,
and sew them flat down to form a square toe ; draw a little piece
of ribbon (or worsted platted,) round the ancle, to tie it with.

it ; twist it and the ball you are knitting with so as not to make a longloop on the
wrong side. This must be done with either of the balls not in use.

36

KNITTING.

LONG BOOT.

If for a Long Stocking, work 24 more rows white before finish-
ing with colour at top.

UNDER OR SLEEPING STOCKING.

This Woollen Stocking, for wearing under silk stockings, is very
useful, and is also used as night or sleeping stockings. They are
worked in three plies “Lady Betty,” or hard twisted “ Lady Betty,”
or if that cannot be supplied, any soft fine wool yarn will do.
Two cuts wool, and four ivory or bone pins, No. 10, are required.

Cast on 64 stitches.

1st Round, P2, B2; repeat to end.

Repeat as first row until you have an inch worked ; then work
quite plain, until you have got it as long as a stocking, measuring
from the very top of stocking down to the extremity of toe part.
Begin and take-in by working seven stitches plain, then take-in.

KNITTING, 37

and so repeat all round ; then work seven rows plain. Now six
stitches plain; then take-in, so repeat all round; then six plain
rounds ; then work fivo stitches, again take-in, repeat all round •
and so repeat until you have taken in all hut 12 stitches; draw
them up with a needle, and fasten them off.

BAG IN PURSE CORD, (NOT PURSE SILK.)

SPIDER-NET PATTERN.

- , Tllis Ba g is made up on a piece of pasteboard,
; with a white lining below, or it may be drawn
' with rings and tassels, and worn without a lining.
[ T 'yo skeins of cord, and 2 pins No. 14, are re-
quired. Cast on 48 stitches. W ork 5 plain rows.
6th Row, S, P2, edge stitches, 0, P, 0, T, P, T, repeat, edge stitches, P3
1 th Row, b, P2, edge stitches, pearl, ede-p stitches

8th Row, S, P2, edge stitches, 0, P3, 0, A, repeat, edge stitches’ P3

KNITTING.

I

||

9th Row, S, P2, edge stitches, pearl, edge stitches, P3

10th Row, S, P2, edge stitches, T, P, T, 0, P, 0, repeat, edge stitches, P3

11th Row, S, P2, edge stitches, pearl, edge stitches, P3

12th Row, S, P2, edge stitches, A, 0, P3, 0, repeat, edge stitches, P3

13th Row, S, P2, edge stitches, repeat, edge stitches, P3

Repeat from 6th row until you have the bag about 3-8ths long,
then work the 5 plain rows. Cast it off.

This stitch makes a very pretty Tidy, a Scarf, Shawl, &c. &c.

VERY BEAUTIFUL SHADED BAG.

This Bag is worked in 15 shades of scarlet, commencing about
three shades from the very darkest that can be had, and shading
successively up to the bright military scarlet, which terminates
at the top of the Bag. The stitch in which the Bag is worked,
resembles a round net work in gold colour all over this shaded

KNITTING.

39

ground, and has really a rich and harmonious effect. (I have
seen it worked in shades of green purse twist, and gold twist for
the net work ; which was really splendid.) The material may
either be purse twist or Berlin wool. When worked, make it
up by sewing it together at the bottom of the Bag. Work a
knit handle, (like that of Shaded Bag in volume Second,) add
shaded tassels to suit ; or it may be made up many ways, to suit
the taste of the wearer. The Bag in gold was made up on a founda-
tion, with a rich gold cord and gold tassels. If done in silk, 1 hank
of each colour, and 3 of yellow ; if in wool, a small hank of each
shade, and 6 of gold colour or yellow, and 5 wires of No. 19, are
required. Cast on 160 stitches with yellow, (gold colour.)

1st Round, plain,

2nd Round, pearl, and 1 more round.

Tie on the darkest colour, and work as follows : —

4th Round, *S 2, P6, repeat all round. Repeat as 4th round 6 more times.

S2, is to lift two stitches off from the left pin on to the right without working.

40

KNITTING.

Tie on the yellow, and work as follows : —

11th Round, plain.

12th Round, pearl, and 1 more round.

Tie on the second darkest shade, and work as follows : —

14th Round, P4, S2, P2, repeat all round, and 6 more rounds.

Now repeat from 1st round with the shades in succession, as these
two. You will perceive in working the pattern, each time it takes
in two more shades ; work on until you have worked up to the
lightest. Then work as follows for top of the Bag : —

Tie on the yellow, and work.

1st Round, plain.

2nd Round pearl, and 4 more rounds.

Work the Handle with double silk or wool, and 2 wires of
No. 16. Cast on 8 stitches with lightest shade.

1st Row, Ob, y,, repeat to end of row ; work 3 more rows.

KNITTING. 4]

Tie on the yellow, and work as follows : —

5th Row, plain.

6th Row pearl.

Now tie on the second lightest, and work as 1st, and 3 more
rows ; then again with yellow, as 5th and 6th rows. Work on in
tills way the succession of shades until you .have about inches
done ; this is the middle of the handle ; continue still as before,
only work back with the same shades from the dark one you have
just finished with, up to the lightest. Cast it off, and sew it up to
make the handle round. Fasten it inside of the Bag.

MUFFETEES,

Work these in Albert blue wool, over a white foundation, as
before described. They are worked in the Bag- stitch, only at the
beginning work four more pearl rounds of the blue, so as to make

KNITTING.

42

a broader margin at the bottom of the MufFetee ; also at the top
work four more pearl rounds. Before casting them off, they should
be about inches deep. Five wires of No. 18 ; 8 small hanks of
blue Berlin wool, and 6 of white, are required.

Cast on 80 stitches, for a Lady.

ANOTHER MUFFETEE.

Worked in stripes of a bright full pink or cerise colour, and a
deep rich brown or claret. Two wires of No. 17, and 9 small hanks
of pink and 3 of brown are required. Cast on 50 stitches.

1st Row, brown, plain.

2ndRow pearl.

45 Tie on the pink.

3rd Row, plain, and 5 rows more.

* Before beginning every other row, twist the wool you are not working with round
the one you are working, so as to prevent a long loop of worsted behind.

KNITTING.

43

Repeat from 1st row until you have got as much worked as goes
round the hand tightly. Sew them up.

WARM MUFFETEES FOR BOYS.

Worked same as foregoing Muffetees, in four plies fleecy. They
can be worked all one colour, 21 stitches, 2 pins No. 9, and 1 hank
of wool, are required.

PETITE NET ECHARPE FOR THE NECK.

This is netted in four shades of Berlin wool, either pink or
blue, and a white ; 2 rows of each shade, working from darkest
up to white, and receding from lightest colour to darkest, so that
the white comes always in the centre of the light part of stripe, —
consequently, when repeating this stripe, the dark shades meet.

44

KNITTING.

Recommence with the 2nd darkest shade, and work as before ;
(this is to prevent the 4 rows of dark coming together.) Net
4 stripes; or, if wished wider, work another stripe; draw up the
ends ; add a shaded tassel to each. Cast on 170 stitches. A flat
mesh No. 7, and 6 hanks of each of the colours, are required.

HANDSOME CROCHET BAG.

This Bag is composed of a round bottom and stripes of chine'e
twist and plain twist alternately. The colours are arranged as
follow : — the round part in gold coloured shaded silk, the 1st stripe
following dark blue, the 2nd stripe shaded purple, the 3rd stripe
brown, the 4th stripe shaded scarlet, the 5th stripe dark green, the
6th stripe shaded yellow. One hank of extra coarse purse silk of
each kind, and one of white, 3 of the yellow shade, a crochet
handle, and a steel crochet needle. No. 1, (that is the very coarsest

KNITTING.

45

needle of the kind), are required. The Bag is all worked in double
tambour stitch.

Cast on 3 chain stitches with shaded yellow ; join them to form
the round ; then work as follows : —

1st Round,* work two stitches in every stitch, so as to increase it.

2nd Round, work 1 plain stitch, work twof in next stitch ; repeat this
all round.

3rd Round, work 2 plain stitches, work two in next stitch ; repeat this
all round.

4th Round, work 3 plain stitches, work two in next stitch ; repeat this
all round.

5th Round, work 4 plain stitches, work two in next stitch ; repeat this
all round.

Thus you perceive there are fewer stitches made every round;

• I always carry on a thread, as it makes the work much more solid and more even.

t Observe, in working the two, first work on the wrong side of the work a stitch,
which forms a sort of ridge in the round before, then work the stitch in the usual way ;
this makes no hole, and I think it much the best way of increasing.

E

KNITTING.

46

so continue in proportion until you have got your round piece,
measuring 4 inches in diameter, then work in the stripes as before
described; every stripe is worked about 6 rounds; always between
each stripe work a plain round in white. This Bag is not lined,
but drawn with a cord through 12 small rings ; add tassels at the
side, and one the same size at the bottom ; shaded yellow look best.

KETTLE HOLDER.

Two pins of No. 7, and one hank of 9 plies fleecy, (say purple
fleecy, as this colour washes best) are required.

Cast on 21 stitches.

1st Row, *0, S, T, repeat to end; every row is the same.

Knit on until it is square.

This is the same stitch as the Russian Shawl, Hassock, and
Comfort, in First Volume, and the Polish Pelisse, Shaded Cushion,
and Brioche, in Second Volume.

• To make an O at the beginning of a row, you must have the thread in front of the
wire before beginning, which makes a stitch when you work the T.

ELEGANT KNIT SCARF, WITH COLOURED WAVED ENDS.

Similar to the one in Vol. II.

This Scarf is worked with two plies
Lady Betty wool* in the centre, and with
English wool, in shades, for the ends.
Shades of gold colour look very well, going
from light down to a pretty bright maroon
colour; and shades of scarlet look ex-
tremely rich and beautiful, not going
lighter than the military shade. T wo hanks
of white, and one hank of each of the six
shades of English embroidery wool, and
( Centre stitch.) two Ivory pins, No. 10, are required.

Observe to cast on and off very loosely.

• This wool can be forwarded from Mr Gaugain’s establishment to any post-town in
Great Britain. The wools for the centre cost about 2a. including postage. All other goods
mentioned in Mrs G.’s Works may be had in the same way.

48 KNITTING.

Cast on 132 stitches with white.

1st Row, plain, and 7 more rows — Tie on the darkest shade, and work
as follows.

9th Row, S, P5 edge stitches T, T, T, T, 0, P, 0, P, 0, P, 0, P, 0, P,

0, P, 0, P, O, T, T, T, T, B. repeat, edge stitches, P6.

10th Row, S, P5 edge stitches P, B23, repeat to end, edge stitches, P6.

Repeat 9th and 10th rows again.

Tie on the 2nd darkest shade, and work as the darkest shade.

Having done so, work every shade in the same way up to the
lightest, then again from 2nd lightest to darkest, which finishes one
stripe of colour. By this means you have worked the pattern over
22 times. Now work the pattern 12 times in white; then work i

again the coloured stripe as before ; then 8 rows all plain with
white. This finishes one end.

Commence the centre pattern as follows :

KNITTING.

49

1st Row, S, P5 edge stitches, P2, 0, T, P3, 0, T, 0, T, 0, T, -fT, 0,
T, 0, T, 0, P3, 0, T ; repeat edge stitches, P6,

2nd Row, S, P5 edge stitches, pearl, all but edge stitches, P6.

3rd Row, S, P5 edge stitches, P, T, 0, P3, T, 0, T, O, T, 0, P, 0, T,

0, T, 0, P3, T, 0, P ; repeat edge stitches, P6.

4th Row, S, P5 edge stitches, pearl, all hut edge stitches, P6.

5th Row, S, P5 edge stitches, P2, 0, T, P, T, 0, T, 0, T, 0, P3, 0, T,

0, T, 0, T, P2, 0, T ; repeat edge stitches, P6,

6th Row, S, P5 edge stitches, pearl, all but edge stitches, P6.

7th Row, S, P5 edge stitches, P, T, 0, P, T, 0, T, 0, T, 0, P5, 0, T,

0, T, 0, T, T, 0, P ; repeat edge stitches, P6.

Sth Row, S, P5 edge stitches, pearl, all hut edge stitches, P6.

9th Row, S, P5 edge stitches, P2, 0, T, P, 0, T, 0, T, 0, T, P, 0, T,

P2, 0, T, 0, T, 0, T, 0, T ; repeat edge stitches, P6.

10th Row, S, P5 edge stitches, pearl, all but edge stitches, P6.

t This T, T, is formed into an A, by working T ; then the other T, and lifting the
first over the last

KNITTING.

*

50

11th Row, S, P5 edge stitches, P, T, 0, P3, 0, T, 0, T, 0, T, P2, T. 0,
T, 0, T, 0, P, T, 0, P ; repeat edge stitches, P6.

12th Row, S, P5 edge stitches, pearl, all but edge stitches, P6.

Repeat from first row, until the centre is long enough.
When finished, it should measure about three yards ; the
other end is worked as first.

Some ladies prefer working the centre of white first ; hut before

I casting off, work the border as I have before described ; then cast

off. Now return to the cast-on row, and pick up the stitches,
and work the other end — this is to make both ends work in the
same. I generally work as first described, as I do not dislike the
unique appearance at*each end. Damp with a little dissolved gum
and water, and stretch it quite even out till dry; add a fringe of
...

KNITTING.

51

CAP FOR WEARING UNDER THE BONNET.

It is worked in Berlin wool, and composed of stripes alternately
coloured and white, and tied at the hack and under the chin with
a piece of ribbon. Four hanks white, and 8 of blue, and 2 pins
No. 9, are required.

Cast on 82 stitches with blue.

1st Row, S edge stitch, plain,

2nd Row, S edge stitch, pearl,

3rd Row, S edge stitch, plain,

4th Row, S edge stitch, pearl,

5th Row, S edge stitch, T ; repeat T to end of row,
6th Row, S edge stitch, P, M* ; repeat

edge stitch, P.
edge stitch, P.
edge stitch, P.
edge stitch, P.
edge stitch, P.
edge stitch, P.

• This Made-stitch is done by picking up a stitch from the row below and working
it. It is that part of the loop between the stitch just worked, and the one you are going
to work. When you pick it up, you will perceive it will draw with both stitches on
either side.

52

KNITTING,

, S edge stitch, plain, edge stitch, P.

, S edge stitch, pearl, edge stitch, P.

, S edge stitch, plain, edge stitch, P.

, S edge stitch, pearl, edge stitch, P.

, S, T edge stitches, T ; repeat T to end of row, T, P edge
stitches, P.

, S, P edge stitches, M, P ; repeat edge stitches, P2.

, S edge stitch, plain, edge stitch, P.

, S edge stitch, pearl, edge stitch, P.

, S, T edge stitches, T ; repeat T to end of row, edge stitches, T, P.
, S, P edge stitches, P, M ; repeat edge stitches, P2.

Repeat from 9th to 12th row.

Tie on the white, and repeat 13th to 16th row, and again from
9th to 12th row.

Tie on the blue, and repeat 13th to 16th row, and again from
the 9th to the 16th row.

Tie on the white, and repeat from 9th to 16th row.

KNITTING.

53

Tie on the blue, and repeat from 9th to 16th row, and from 9th
to 12 th row.

Tie on the white, and repeat from 13th to 16th row, and from
9th to 12th row.

Tie on the blue, and work one plain row.

Turn down a small piece of first coloured stripe, so as to form a
hem over the forehead, — (the piece turned in for hem, is from the
centre of the first open row) ; this must be done before the side
stitches are -picked up.

Now pick up and work the stitches down the side of Cap ; there
should be about 30 in number worked. Next row pearl them all
back, and all along the top of the Cap ; then pick up the other side
of Cap, and work as before. Next row, plain ; second row, pearl ;
third row, T. Repeat T to end of row ,• fourth row, P, M ; repeat
to end of row ; fifth row, plain ; sixth row, pearl ; then cast off.
Now hem it all round, as before described, for front part.

— i, ....... . .

Printed image digitised by the University of Southampton Library Digitisation Unit

54 KNITTING.

STRONG GUARD FOR A LADY OR GENTLEMAN.

Three hanks of common sized purse silk, and 2 wires of No. 20
are required.

Cast on 4 stitches.

1st Row, Ob, j ; repeat to end of row.

Every row is worked the same. Work it to the length required.

55

NETTING.

]

LONG NET PURSE FOR A LADY.

Worked with purse twist, two sizes finer
than the common.

Cast on 90 stitches ; work with a mesh, No.
18 ; it requires 3 skeins silk ; net up the sides
together; the cast-on and the last row work-
ed are those that are joined.

All netting is improved by damping and
stretching out till dry.

Printed image digitised by the University of Southampton Library Digitisation Unit

56

NETTING.

LONG NET PURSE FOR A LADY.

Work with, silk the same size as first net
'purse, — only this difference : the first five
'rows are plain, the sixth is worked as a plain
,row ; instead of putting the thread once round
the needle before working, pass it twice round ;
by this means it forms a row of long loops,
’then 5 rows plain ; work until you have 84
.rows.

The sixth row, if wished to be twisted as in plate, work it and
the following row in round netting, as described in following re-
ceipt, only keeping in mind that the thread must be passed twice
round the mesh in sixth row.

NETTING.

57

ROUND NETTING FOR A GENTLEMAN’S LONG PURSE.

Cast on 100 stitches ■with second-sized purse
twist, mesh No. 1 6 ; work 100 rows.

Mode of Netting Form the loop round your

fingers as in common netting ; pass the netting-
needle and thread quite through the finger-loop,
bringing it up behind the mesh, between the mesh
and fore-finger, still keeping the fingers and loop
the needle, and pass it down

on them in the same position

x i ; reverse

through the first loop (on the foundation,) passing the needle in a
slanting direction over the mesh ; draw it quite through, then with-
draw your fingers from the loop, as in common netting ; continue
every loop in this way. This makes a very strong purse.

58

NETTING.

The following Open Netting receipts may be worked for Veils,
Caps, Purses, Scarf's, Shawls, Mittens, Cuffs, Sleeves, D’oyleys,
Fish-cloths, Toilet-covers, Curtains, &c.

HONEYCOMB NETTING FOR VEIL.

Worked in white China silk; this veil is
usually dyed after it is worked ; it is finished
by a netted scollop border ; the silk should be
about the thickness of the third-sized purse
twist, the mesh for veil, No. 12.

1st Row, plain.

2nd Row, work the 2d loop first, the 1 st loop
second, then the 4th loop, then the 3d loop.
Proceed in this way to the end of row.

3rd Row, plain.

NETTING,

|

59

4th Row, net the 1st loop plain ; then proceed as 2d row ; finish-
ing stitch plain.

You will perceive in the fourth row you have a plain stitch at
the commencement and end of the row, which is not in the second.
This occurs on every alternate twisted row, so as to make the
twisted loops come in their proper places, by withdrawing the mesh
after the third or plain row is done ; you will observe a sort of
twist in one of the loops, then two loops plain, the fourth loop a
sort of twist ; you will by this know, in the following row, that the
two loops that are plain are those you work, by taking the last
first, and first last, as described in the second row. You must re-
gulate the number of stitches to be cast on for a veE by those usu-
ally worn, as they vary much according to fashion. The mode I
adopt, when I wish to know how many stitches will be required
for any piece of work, is by working a few stitches — say 20 stitches,
and then 20 rows ; by this means you will exactly ascertain the

width and length of 20 stitches : then if, for example, after mea-
suring the width and length, you would wish it to be 10 times the
width of the little piece, you will have 200 stitches to east on.

VERY PRETTY LONG GRECIAN NET
PURSE FOR A LADY.

Worked with the finest-sized purse twist.
You may work the plain rows in a bright
colour, and the open rows in white, or you
may work it all one colour, according to taste,
with meshes Nos. 12 and 19. Cast on 100
stitches, and net about 100 rows, alternately
6 rows plain and an open one, as described
in receipt.

1st Row', No- 19 mesh, plain, and 5 more rows.

7th Row, No. 12 mesh, plain.

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NETTING.

{

s

8tli Row, No. 19 mesh : twist* the 1st and 2d loops together, and
net the side loop ; repeat to end of row.

9th Row, No. 19 mesh, plain, and 5 more rows.

15th Row, No. 12 mesh, plain.

16th Row, No. 19 mesh, 1 plain stitch, and proceed as 8th row.

• Twist the first and second loops together, by forming the loop on your fingers, as in
plain netting ; pull the needle and thread quite" through, as described in round netting,
then insert the point of netting-needle into the first loop, as in the common way, point-
ing to the top ; pass it along to the second loop ; pull it with the point of the needle
through the first loop. Having now the second loop on your needle, again catch the
first loop, by gently raising the point of needle ; pull it through the second ; this done,
you will now have the first loop only on the needle ; draw it through ; withdraw your
fingers from the finger-loop, as in common netting. The next stitch to be worked is a
very small loop, which appears as if it were a loose knot on the sideof the twisted stitch;
it is the loose part of the second loop that was twisted through the first. 1 do not think,
however, that the Grecian net can, by any description, be reduced to practice, without

some previous knowledge of it. Shortly alter the publication of the first edition of

my first volume, lam happy to say that several ladies informed me (and some brought the
net wilh them to show) they had worked from this receipt without any other assistance.

62

NETTING.

GRECIAN NET FOR A VEIL.

Worked with white China silk; cast on even numbers; work
with two meshes, the one No. 9, the other No. 16.

1st Row, No. 9 mesh, plain.

2nd Row, No. 16 mesh ; twist the 1st and 2d loops together, (as
described in preceding receipt,) then net the little side loop, as de-
scribed in receipt for long Grecian purse immediately before this.

The veil is worked in this way : — A plain row with large mesh;
and a twisted row with the small, always keeping in mind you be-
gin and end every other twisted row with a plain stitch, so as to
make the twist come in its proper place.

i

l

SINGLE DIAMOND NETTING.

■ 1st Row, *P, oP ; repeat to end of row,

2d Row, P, Pl ; repeat to end of row.

3rd Row, oP, P ; repeat to end of row.

4th Row, Pl, P ; repeat to end of row.

Explanation of Terms — P, a plain stitch —
oP, a long loop ; instead of passing the thread
once round the mesh before netting the stitch
off, pass it twice round the mesh to form the

long loop Pl, a loose stitch, formed by working the present loop

to meet the short one in the preceding row.

• You will perceive, when you withdraw the mesh from this row, there will be a long
and a short loop alternately.

NETTING.

DIAMOND OF FIVE STITCHES FOR
A LONG PURSE.

Work with mesli No. 18, and second-
sized purse twist ; 3 skeins are required.
Cast on 73 stitches. Work the following
receipt eight times over; this completes
the purse.

1st Row, oP, P5 ; repeat to end of row ;
finishing stitch is oP.

2nd Row, Px, Pl, W P4, W ; repeat to
end of row ; finishing stitch is Lx.

3rd Row, Px, Pl, W, P3, W Px ; repeat
to end of row ; finishing stitch is

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NETTING. 65

4th Row, P, Px, Pl, W, P2, W, Px ; repeat to end of row ; finishing
( stitch is P.

5th Row, P. Px, Pl, W, P, W, Px, P ; repeat to end of row ; finish-
stitch is P.

6th Row, P2, Px, Pl, Px, P ; repeat to end of row ; finishing stitch is P.
7th Row, P2, Px, oP. P2 ; ditto, ditto, P.

8th Row, P3, W, Px, Pl, W, P ; ditto, ditto, P.

9th Row, P2, W, Px, Px, Pl, W,P ; ditto, ditto, P.

10th Row, P2, W, Px, P, Px, Pl, W ; ditto, ditto, P.

11th Row, P,W, Px, P2, Px, Pl, W; ditto, ditto, P.

12th Row, Pl, Px, P3, Px ; ditto, ditto, Pl.

Repeat from 1 st row.

4

Explanation of Terms. — oP, see Index of net terms ; Px, a plain
stitch, the cross is only to show it was a long loop in the former
row ; W, withdraw the mesh before working the next loop, (see
Index ; P2, two plain stitches.)

|

i i .. .

NETTING.

LEAF NETTING.+

vXAyyyY' Cast on 5 stitclies for every pattern you
/a/ VVa/v' wish ; 2 loops for each edge; mesh No. 14,
and cotton No. 50.

s/S A mCXX/ 1st Row, 2 plain for edge, *3 plain ; increase

4 in next loop; increase 4 in the
£X/\/S/*vS^/ next; repeat to end of row from

VaTX star 1 2 plain for edge.

2d Row, 2 plain for edge ; * gather in all the loops that were in-
creased on the two loops above-described, into one stitch,
(you will find nine loops in all on the increased loop), 4
plain ; repeat to end of row from star, 2 plain for edge.
3d Row, plain.

4th Row, 2 plain for edge, *2 plain, increase, 4 in next loop, in-

f A receipt for beautiful Netted Mitten in vol. I. is worked in this stitch.

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NETTING.

67

crease 4 on next loop, 1 plain ; repeat to end of row from
star, 2 plain for edge.

5th Row, 2 plain for edge, *1 plain, gather in the 9 loops, 3 plain ;

repeat to end of row from star, 2 plain for edge.

6th Row, plain. Repeat from first row.

Increase is to net so many given stitches into one loop ; so, to
increase 4, you must net five times to give four loops, as one must
be knit to keep up the number of cast on stitches.

DOTTED NET.

k

' 1st Row, oP, in the same loop increase 2
■ stitches ; repeat to end of row. All the rows are
the same.

Explanation of Terms — oP, instead of pass-
ing the -.thread once round the mesh, as in a
plain stitch, pass it twice round before netting ;
increase 2 stitches by netting 2 stitches in the
same loop.

NETTING.

FRENCH GROUND NET.

« Cast on even numbers.

1st Row, P, oP ; repeat to end of row.

2nd Row, Px, Pi,; repeat to end of row-
3rd Row, *oP, JP ; repeat to end of row.

4th Row, Pn; Px ; repeat to end of row.

5th Row, P, *oP, +P ; repeat ; end and stitch
simply oP.

Repeat from 2nd Row.

Explanation of Terms — oP, before letting off your loop on the
foundation, pass your needle and thread quite through the finger
loop, as described in Grecian net, then insert the point of needle
down through the top loop, which you will find exactly above ; on
the second last row, in a slanting direction, to the right of the

NETTING.

69

first loop on last row, through which, with the point of your needle,
draw up the first loop on the last row. Net it off; by so doing it
causes the second loop on the last row to come partly up through
the top loop. You therefore net it from that part which presents
itself above the top loop, — this being a very small one. This little
loop is. represented in the receipt thus — i’P, with this exception,
when it occurs, as it will at every other twisted row, it must be a
plain stitch at the beginning and at the oP finishing of the row, as
will be seen in fifth row of receipt.

SCOLLOP FOR BORDERS OF VEILS, COLLARS, CAPS, &c.

1st Row, cast on one loop for each scollop
you wish.

2d Row, flat mesh No. I, increase 12 into
each loop.

70 NETTING.

3rd Row, round mesh No. 1 5, net each of the inereasedloops off plain.
4th Row, round mesh No. 15, plain.

The thread I used for the above meshes was about the fineness
of the third-sized purse twist.

ANOTHER SCOLLOP FOR BORDER.

1st Row, cast on 1 loop for
each scollop required.
2d Row, flat mesh No. 1, in-
crease 22 loops on
each.

3d Row, round mesh No. 14,
net each of the in-
creased loops plain.

4th Row, round mesh No- 19, oP, increase 2 loops in:o the same
stitch.

I

NETTING.

71

5th Row, round mesh No. 14, net all the long loops only.
6th Row, round mesh No. 14, plain.

7th Row, round mesh No. 14, plain.

SCOLLOP.

1st Row, cast on a plain stitch
for’ each scollop .required.
2nd Row, flat mesh No. 1, in-
crease 20 into each loop.
3rd Row, round mesh No. 14,
net all the increased loops, each plain.

4th and 5th Row, round mesh No. 14, plain.

72

CROCHET.

LONG PURSE OF OPEN STITCH OF SINGLE TAMBOUR.

Cast on 160 single chain stitches-

1st Row, 3 chain stitches, not attached to the cast-on row ; attach
a stitch, by working a stitch on the fourth stitch of the
cast-on row of foundation.

2d Row, always make your attached stitch on the centre one of
the 3 chain stitches worked in the last row, then three
chain stitches.

Every succeeding row is done in this way. When sufficient is
done for forming the purse, join it up in the usual way, by tam-
bouring it together about 21 inches at each side, and draw it up at
each end. The attach stitch may be a bead stitch.

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CROCHET.

73

PLAIN FRENCH TAMBOUR LONG PURSE.
(sometimes called double tambour.)

Work with a fine ivory hook; this liook being coarser than the
silk, gives it the appearance of an open stitch. The purse s alter-
nately worked on the right and wrong side.

Mode of Working — Cast on 100 loops in single chain stitch,
having the last of the cast-on loops on the needle. 2d Row, insert
the 1 needle in the first loop, and catch the silk from behind ; pull
it through the loop. You have now 2 loops on the needle, then
catch the thread, and pull it through the two loops ; this forms one
stitch. So repeat in every loop to the end of row ; 90 rows work-
ed in this way form the purse.

74

CROCHET.

FRENCH TAMBOUR LONG PURSE.

Cast on 130 stitches for a gentlemans, and 110 for a lady’s purse.
This is worked with a line needle and ivory handle, and common-
sized purse twist, and all worked on one side. When you come
to the end of the row, cut off the thread, and draw it through the
last loop, which fastens it. 2nd row, commence at the same stitch
which you began, the last row on, and work in the same way.
Continue till it is sufficiently wide, then join it by tambouring it
together ; 4 skeins twist are required.

OPEN TAMBOUR PURSE.

Cast on 220 stitches ; work with a fine tambour needle and
handle ; 8 skeins of third-sized purse twist are required.

CROCHET.

t

T

*

IS

1st Row, begin with one of the cast-on stitches on the needle, throw
on a stitch on your needle, by casting the thread over it ;
insert the needle into the second loop, catching the silk
in from behind, and pull it through ; you now have three
loops on the needle, again cast on a stitch, pull it through
the first two on the point of the needle ; there are now
two loops on it, again cast on another, pull it through
the two ; you have now.only one loop, cast on one, pull
it through the one ; having now one on the needle, com-
mence as before described.

This stitch is worked on every other loop only, thereby leaving
one unworked, which forms the open part of stitch. Continue
working thus as many times as you think sufficient for a purse ;
join it up.

This stitch makes a very beautiful purse worked all on the
right side, always cutting the thread off at the end of each row,

CROCHET.

76

(but leaving as much of the thread as will fasten it neatly behind) ;
working as follows : —

Work 2 open rows with white, then 10 plain rows of double
tambour stitch with light blue, 2 open rows of white, 10 plain rows
of double tambour stitch with black; repeat this 3 more times,
which forms the purse.

The purse is much improved by working a pattern in gold colour
on the black, and on the blue, a pattern in steel and gold beads.

OPEN TAMBOUR STITCH.

Cast on 200 stitches with third-sized twist.

1st Row, 3 double tambour stitches, 3 chain stitches ; repeat to
end of row, always making the double stitches three
stitches apart from the last.

2nd Row, work the 3 double tambour stitches round the 3 chain
stitches of the last row.

Repeat as last row till the purse is finished.